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Indoor Snowball Fight – Free Crochet Pattern

by yarnfullyyours 0 Comments

Indoor Snowball Fight

November 7, 2019

Several years ago, I purchased a tin of plush snowball toys for my classroom. We enjoyed several fun indoor snowball fights during those weeks of being stuck inside for recess times. However, the snowballs quickly popped open at the seams and began to lose their stuffing. Fast forward to a few months back when memories of those days randomly popped back into my mind, and I found myself thinking “I could make those!”

As I was working on coming up with something that I could put up in my Etsy shop and bring to this season’s craft fairs, I saw a post on social media of someone else making these. However, I decided to share what I did for my set anyway, as I’m already claiming that this is not an original idea of my own but rather a re-imagining of something I’d seen before.

This set is wonderful for those stretches of time when large quantities of snow keep you cooped up and going stir crazy. But wouldn’t this also make a fun Christmas gift for someone that lives in an area that doesn’t typically get enough snow for a snowball fight? And even though I live in an area that gets frequent snowfall in the winter, I can appreciate a warm, dry snowball fight over the real thing any day!

Each snowball is approximately 3.5” in diameter and weighs approximately 0.7 ounce. I’ve included two different versions of the snowball, one using a K hook and one using an L hook. I tend to crochet on the tighter side and ended up using the L hook version. (I’m going to insert my disclaimer here: While each snowball is lightweight and soft, supervision is recommended for safe play. And setting a guideline of no head/face shots is probably a good way to keep things amicable.)

You can add this pattern to your Ravelry queue here or Pin It for later here. And don’t forget to look for the free download button at the bottom of the post.

My Materials:

Abbreviations:

  • MR – magic ring
  • sl st – slip stitch
  • sc – single crochet
  • dec – (decrease) single crochet the next 2 stitches together
  • inc – (increase) work 2 single crochets into the next stitch
  • *– work directions between the 2 * on repeat, as stated for that round

Notes:

  • This pattern is worked in the round. Do not join at the end of rounds.
  • Make sure to add enough fiber fill to give the snowball its shape, but to keep snowballs soft and light, do not overstuff.

The Pattern

K Hook Version

Make 6, or desired amount

Round 1: In MR, sc 6 (6 sc)

Round 2: Sc increase around (12 sc)

Round 3: *Sc, inc* around (18 sc)

Round 4: *Sc, sc, inc* around (24 sc)

Round 5: Sc around (24 sc)

Round 6: *Sc in next 2, dec* around (18 sc)

Round 7: *Sc, dec* around (12 sc)

Stuff

Round 8: Dec around (6 sc)

Finish off, close stitches, and weave in end.

L Hook Version

Make 6, or desired amount

Round 1: In MR, sc 6 (6 sc)

Round 2: Sc increase around (12 sc)

Round 3: *Sc, inc* around (18 sc)

Rounds 4-5: Sc around (18 sc)

Round 6: *Sc, dec* around (12 sc)

Stuff

Round 7: Dec around (6 sc)

Finish off, close stitches, and weave in end.

Packaging

After making 6 snowballs, I loaded them into my white organza drawstring bag. I then cut out a tag, hole-punched the corner, strung the tag on one of the drawstrings, and tied a bow with the cinched up drawstring.

Yarnfully Yours,

Cute Spider Amigurumi – Free Amigurumi Crochet Pattern

by yarnfullyyours 0 Comments

Cute Spider

October 16, 2019

Fall is my favorite time of year. Something about the changing leaves, pumpkin decorations, and apple cider has always resonated with me and given me a warm fuzzy feeling towards the season.

That being said, I have to admit I’m not a big fan of Halloween . . .  at least certain aspects and themes of Halloween. Horror and gore are not my thing. However, a little creepy cute this time of year can be fun and festive. And with that thought in mind, here to say hi is my newest little amigurumi.

This spider is a little bit cute, a little bit creepy, and whole lot of fun to make! When I first thought about stitching up a cute spider, my anti-seaming-self groaned at the thought of sewing on eight little legs. That’s when I decided to figure out a way to make this a no-sew project, and I am very pleased to announce that this little guy is worked all in one piece!

I had some wiggly safety eyes to attach to my little spider, but I would love to see him worked up with different styles of eyes. And imagine stitching up a purple spider! If you work this little guy up, I would love to see your finished makes. If you’re on Instagram, you can tag me using @yarnfully_yours_ or #yarnfullyyours. If you’re on Ravelry, don’t forget to create a project to share with the community over there.

You can find the PDF on Etsy here.

You can also find the PDF or add this pattern to your Ravelry queue here.

Or Pin It for later here.

 

Finished size: approximately 6’’ x 2.5’’, including legs

My Materials:

  • worsted weight black yarn
  • Hook F (3.75 mm) – for legs
  • Hook G (4.00 mm) – for body
  • safety eyes (sample used 10 mm safety wiggle eyes)
  • fiber fill
  • tapestry needle

Abbreviations:

  • ch – chain
  • sl st – slip stitch
  • sc – single crochet
  • dec – (decrease) single crochet the next 2 stitches together
  • inc – (increase) work 2 single crochets into the next stitch
  • *– work directions between the 2 * on repeat, as stated for that round

Notes:

  • This pattern is worked in the round. Do not join at the end of rounds.
  • The spider is worked from the top down in one piece. The legs are worked into round 7, so this is a no sew project.
  • When working round 7, use your G hook for all single crochet stitches and your F hook for all the chains and slip stitches worked into the chains. Going down a hook size for the legs results in a much cleaner look, but you can work it all in one size hook if preferred.
  • When working round 8 take notice of how your legs are laying against the adjacent stitches and that they are coming to the outside of your work. Once round 8 is complete, the legs should be pointing up, as if the spider was laying on its back. Correct stitch placement may be a little tricky on this round, so just make sure that you have a total of 36 single crochet stitches upon completion of the round before moving on to the next.

The Pattern

Round 1: In MR, sc 6 (6 sc)

Round 2: Sc increase around (12 sc)

Round 3: *Sc, inc* around (18 sc)

Round 4: *Sc, sc, inc* around (24 sc)

Round 5: *Sc in next 3, inc* around (30 sc)

Round 6: *Sc in next 4, inc* around (36 sc)

Round 7: Sc around (36 sc)

Round 8: (Sc, ch 15, sl st in second chain from hook, sl st in next 7, skip next ch, sl st in remaining 5, sc in next st), repeat for a total of 4 times, sc 12, (Sc, ch 15, sl st in second chain from hook, sl st in next 7, skip next ch, sl st in remaining 5, sc in next st), repeat  for a total of 4 times, sc 8 (36 sc, 8 legs)

Round 9: Sc around (36 sc) – Make sure to work into only the sc stitches from round 8.

Round 10: Sc around (36 sc)

Round 11: *Sc in next 4, dec* around (30 sc)

Round 12: *Sc in next 3, dec* around (24 sc)

Insert eyes between rounds 8 and 9, approximately 5 stitches apart.

Round 13: *Sc in next 2, dec* around (18 sc)

Round 14: *Sc, dec* around (12 sc)

Stuff

Round 15: Dec around (6 sc)

Finish off, close stitches, and weave in end.

 

Yarnfully Yours,

 

 

The Bubble Tea Cowl – Free Crochet Pattern

by yarnfullyyours 0 Comments

September 26, 2019

Back in July, I ordered the Mystery Yarn of the Month from KT and the Squid. (If you’ve never heard about her monthly yarn, you should check her out on Instagram to get all the details. She has a different approach to the ever popular monthly yarn clubs.) When it arrived in the mail, I was in awe! The colorway is beautiful, and, being 100% Superwash Merino, it is so soft and fluffy. Immediately, I knew that I had to have the perfect project lined up to use this gorgeous yarn.

As I’m sure you can relate, it can sometimes be a little tricky to find a one-skein project that is just right to finally use that special hand-dyed splurge you have in your stash. So after letting the yarn sit for a bit, I picked it up and decided to start experimenting with my own ideas.

After a little trial and error, this cowl emerged from my hook. Something about the combination of the puffs and the lines of unworked loops satisfied the pops of color in the yarn and allowed for a nice squishy finished project. And after coming up with a suitable name with some help from an Instagram follower and friend, the Bubble Tea Cowl was born!

You can find the PDF on Etsy here.
You can also find the PDF or add this pattern to your Ravelry queue here.
Or Pin It for later here.

Finished size: approximately 12.5” x 4.5” (folded in half)

Gauge: 4” x 4” square – 16 stitches x 13 rows

Materials:

Abbreviations:

  • ch – chain
  • sc – single crochet
  • st – stitches
  • BLO – back loop only
  • * – work directions between the 2 * on repeat, as stated for that round

Special Stitch – Puff Stitch:

  1. Yarn over and insert hook into the next stitch, working in the unworked front loop one row below the working row as indicated.
  2. Yarn over and pull up loop (3 loops on hook).
  3. Yarn over and insert into the same stitch.
  4. Yarn over and pull up loop (5 loops on hook).
  5. Repeat steps 3 and 4 three more times (you will have 11 loops on hook).
  6. Yarn over and pull through all 11 loops.
  7. When you proceed onto the next stitch as the pattern states, make sure it is the stitch from the working row beside the one that is above the puff stitch, meaning you will have skipped over the stitch directly above the puff (since you worked the puff one row down rather than in the working row).

Notes:

  • When working into the chain to complete round 1, I stitch into the back bump of the chain. This results in an edge that resembles a row of single crochet stitches rather than a row of chain stitches.
  • This pattern is worked in the round. Do not join at the end of rounds.
  • Pay careful attention to step 7 from the Special Stitch section when completing the single crochet stitch following each puff stitch.
  • Since this cowl is worked in the round, you may want to work a slip stitch at the end of the last row to smooth out the height between the last sc and sewing in the end.
  • While this project was designed as a one-skein project, there were approximately 30 yards of yarn left over from the skein used for the sample. If you would like a wider cowl, you could easily add on pattern repeats using a second skein of yarn.

Pattern:

Ch 101

Round 1: Sc in second chain from hook and each remaining chain across (100 sc)

DO NOT TURN. Begin the next round in the first stitch of the first round, making sure to not twist your work.

Working BLO for the remainder of the project (except when working puff stitches)…

Round 2: Sc around (100 sc)

Round 3: *sc in next 4 stitches, puff in the next stitch one row below* around (100 st)

Round 4-5: sc around (100 sc)

Round 6: *sc in next 2, puff, sc in next 2* around (100 st)

Rounds 7-8: sc around (100 sc)

Round 9: Repeat round 3 (100 st)

Rounds 10-11: sc around (100 sc)

Round 12: Repeat round 6 (100 st)

Rounds 13-14: sc around (100 sc)

Round 15: Repeat round 3 (100 st)

Rounds 16-17: sc around (100 sc)

Round 18: Repeat round 6 (100 st)

Round 19: sc around (100 sc)

Fasten off and sew in ends.

  

Yarnfully Yours,

How many stitches are this project?

  • 2001 total stitches

Shine Brightly – Free Crochet Sunshine Amigurumi Pattern

by yarnfullyyours 0 Comments

July 10, 2019

This past June, the last day of school signified a different end than any other typical school year. It would not only be the final day of that current school year, it also served as the final day of classes before the school permanently closed its doors. It was a truth we had lived with for more than half of the school year, and it was a bittersweet day.

As I planned the end-of-year goody bags for my students that had contained an emoji amigurumi the previous couple of years, I decided to tweak the pattern a little. (You can find the original emoji pattern here.) By transforming the emoji plushies into sunshine plushies, I sought to inspire my students to keep shining brightly as they stepped out into a future that would look a little differently than they were accustomed to.

Just like the emoji pattern, these are a simple project that work up very quickly. And at just a little over 3” in diameter, they are the perfect size for small hands to hold.

I stayed a bit more basic with the faces on these, rather than the more varied emoji faces I worked up in previous years. But the fun of this project – it’s easy to personalize these in any way you can imagine!

You can add this pattern to your Ravelry queue here or Pin It for later here.

Finished size: approximately 3 ½” in diameter

My Materials:

  • Hook G (4.00 mm)
  • Red Heart Super Saver in Bright Yellow
  • small amount of black yarn or embroidery thread
  • fiber fill
  • safety eyes (optional)
  • blunt tapestry needle

Abbreviations:

  • ch – chain
  • sl st – slip stitch
  • sc – single crochet
  • hdc – half double crochet
  • sc2tog – single crochet the next 2 stitches together
  • inc – work 2 single crochets into the next stitch
  • FLO – front loop only
  • BLO – back loop only
  • * – work directions between the 2 * on repeat, as stated for that round

The Pattern:

Round 1: working in a magic circle, sc 6 (6 sc)

Round 2: inc around (12 sc)

Round 3: *sc, inc* around (18 sc)

Round 4: *sc, sc, inc* around (24 sc)

Round 5: *sc, sc, sc, inc* around (30 sc)

Rounds 6: sc around (30 sc)

Round 7: FLO, (Ch 4, sl st in second ch, sc in next ch, hdc in last ch, sk next st, sl st in the next 2 st) repeat around (10 sunrays made)

Round 8: BLO of round 6 stitches, sc around (30 sc)

Round 9: *sc, sc, sc, sc2tog* around (24 sc)

Round 10: *sc, sc, sc2tog* around (18 sc)

Add face and stuffing.

Round 11: *sc, sc2tog* around (12 sc)

Round 12: *sc2tog* around (6 sc)

Fasten off. Close stitches and weave in end.

Yarnfully Yours,

How many stitches are in this project?

  • Sunshine with 10 sunrays = 300 stitches

The Cozy Posy Throw

by yarnfullyyours 0 Comments

July 3, 2019

A while back, I was able to purchase some Mandala Ombre yarn while it was still a rather new product. There were several colorways that caught my eye, but I was envisioning a baby blanket, so I went with the pastels of “Balance”.

Perhaps you saw my Instagram post from the other day, in which I shared a sneak peak of what this beautifully soft yarn was becoming. This yarn is so soft and lovely to work with, and I couldn’t help but share a progress photo!

I decided to work up a simple stitch pattern that allowed the yarn to speak for itself and wanted to add some small flower embellishments to give it a little flair. With the initial thought that this would be a baby blanket, I did not want to implement add-on pieces, so I worked the flowers right into the rows of the blanket. And what a relief it was to reach the end of the project knowing there wasn’t going to be an endless amount of sewing and end-weaving in store!

I added a slightly ridged, easy to stitch edging in a light gray, and I am pleased with the end result!

You can add this pattern to your Ravelry queue here or Pin It for later here.

Finished size: 36 ½”  x 44”

My Materials:

  • Weight 4 yarn
    • For blanket: Mandala Ombre, Balance (4 cakes, a total of 1,376 yds)
    • For edging: I Love This Yarn, Light Gray (partial skein)
  • Hook I (5.5 mm)
  • tapestry needle

Abbreviations:

  • ch – chain
  • sc – single crochet
  • dc – double crochet
  • st – stitch
  • sl st – slip stitch
  • * – work directions between the 2 * on repeat, as stated for that round

Special Stitches:

  • Flower: Ch 6, sl st in second chain made, *ch 4, sl st in same chain as the previous sl st,* repeat 3 more times (5 petals formed), sl st in first ch made at the very start of the flower (the unworked chain remaining between the flower and the blanket stitches)
  • Leaf: Ch 6, sl st in second ch from hook, sc in next, hdc in next, dc in next, hdc in last

Notes:

  • Ch 1 at the beginning of each sc row does NOT count as a stitch.
  • Ch 2 at the beginning of each dc row DOES count as the first stitch. This means that the first stitch of the previous sc row should be skipped to compensate.
  • When working the dc rows, make sure that the flowers are all pushed to the same side of the blanket.
  • The colorway I used includes two shades of green. When working with the green lengths of yarn, I worked a leaf rather than a flower. If you choose to do the same, substitute a leaf in for the section of the pattern that directs you to “work a flower”. Directions for both the flower and the leaf are included in the “Special Stitches” section above.
  • When working the edging, you will be directed to “sc around” to complete the first row. In each st along the top and bottom, you will work one sc. Along the sides, you will work a sc at the end of each sc row and 2 sc at the end of each dc row. This will give you 166 sc along each side and 125 sc along the top and along the bottom.

The Pattern

Blanket:

Ch 126

Row 1: sc in the second chain from hook and each remaining chain across (125 sc)

Row 2: Ch 2, turn, dc in second st and each remaining st across (125 dc)

Row 3: Ch 1, turn, sc in first 3 stitches, work a flower, sc in each remaining st across, working the last sc into the top of the previous row’s turning ch (125 sc, 1 flower)

Row 4: Ch 2, turn, dc in second st and each remaining st across (125 dc)

Row 5: Ch 1, turn, sc in first 122 stitches, work a flower, sc in last 3 stitches, working the last sc into the top of the previous row’s turning ch (125 sc, 1 flower)

Row 6: Ch 2, turn, dc in second st and across (125 dc)

Rows 7-110: Repeat rows 3-6, ending on a row 6 repeat

Row 111: Sc across (125 sc)

DO NOT fasten off.

Edging:

Switch to light gray yarn.

Row 1: Ch 1, Sc around (working down the side first, along the bottom second, back up the other side, and across the top last), sl st in the first sc of the row

Row 2: ch 2, sl st in same sc, ch 2, *sl st in next 2, ch 2* around, sl st in the first sl st of the row

Fasten off and weave in any ends.

Yarnfully Yours,

How many stitches are in this project?

  • Blanket with 111 rows, 36 flowers, and 18 leaves = 15,207 stitches
  • Edging = 1,746 stitches
  • Total = 16,953 stitches

Cell Phone Scarf

by yarnfullyyours 0 Comments

April 2, 2019

A while ago, I got a special request to make a Christmas gift for my grandmother.  My mom had envisioned a thin scarf with small pockets that could be used to hold my grandmother’s cell phone, tissues, or other small odds and ends that are easily misplaced. After some trial and error, I worked up something that we were all happy with.

That initial scarf and was gifted a couple of Christmas seasons ago. This scarf recently caught the eye of some of the residents at my grandmother’s home, so I sat down to work up a few more and decided to write up the pattern.

If you are working up this scarf for yourself, please keep in mind that it was designed to hold a small, flip phone. Some adjustments may need to be made in order to fit a larger phone or wallet.

You can add this pattern to your Ravelry queue here or Pin It for later here.

Finished size:

  • Scarf: approximately 4” at its widest, 2” at its thinnest, and 44.5” long
  • Pocket: approximately 4” x 4.25”

Materials:

  • worsted weight yarn – I Love This Yarn Metallic, Blush Sparkle, 252 yards
  • hook size H (5 mm)
  • 4 stitch markers
  • tapestry needle

Abbreviations:

  • ch – chain
  • sc – single crochet
  • hdc – half double crochet

Notes:

  • Chain 1 at the beginning of each row. The chain does not count as a stitch.
  • The suggested stitch marker use is completely optional, but it is a big help when constructing the pockets.

The Pattern:

Ch 15

Row 1: HDC in 2nd ch from stitch and the remaining chains across (14 HDC)

Row 2-23: Ch, turn, HDC in each st across (14 HDC)

Place a stitch marker at both ends of row 23 to mark the top of the first pocket.

Rows 24-30: Ch, turn, HDC in each st across (14 HDC)

Row 31: Ch, turn, HDC dec, HDC across (13 HDC)

Row 32: Ch, turn, HDC dec, HDC across (12 HDC)

Row 33-38: Ch, turn, HDC across (12 HDC)

Row 39: Ch, turn, HDC dec, HDC across (11 HDC)

Row 40: Ch, turn, HDC dec, HDC across (10 HDC)

Row 41-46: Ch, turn, HDC across (10 HDC)

Row 47: Ch, turn, HDC dec, HDC across (9 HDC)

Row 48: Ch, turn, HDC dec, HDC across (8 HDC)

Row 49-54: Ch, turn, HDC across (8 HDC)

Row 55: Ch, turn, HDC dec, HDC across (7 HDC)

Row 56: Ch, turn, HDC dec, HDC across (6 HDC)

Row 57-96: Ch, turn, HDC across (6 HDC)

Row 97: Ch, turn, HDC inc, HDC across (7 HDC)

Row 98: Ch, turn, HDC inc, HDC across (8 HDC)

Row 99-104: Ch, turn, HDC across (8 HDC)

Row 105: Ch, turn, HDC inc, HDC across (9 HDC)

Row 106: Ch, turn, HDC inc, HDC across (10 HDC)

Row 107-112: Ch, turn, HDC across (10 HDC)

Row 113: Ch, turn, HDC inc, HDC across (11 HDC)

Row 114: Ch, turn, HDC inc, HDC across (12 HDC)

Row 115-120: Ch, turn, HDC across (12 HDC)

Row 121: Ch, turn, HDC inc, HDC across (13 HDC)

Row 122: Ch, turn, HDC inc, HDC across (14 HDC)

Rows 123-129: Ch, turn, HDC across (14 HDC)

Place a stitch marker at both ends of row 129 to mark the top of the second pocket.

Rows 130-152: Ch, turn, HDC across (14 HDC)

Do not fasten off.

Finishing:

Place stitch markers to hold pockets together.

  • Fold the corners from the chain row up to the stitch markers on row 23 and feed the corners into the corresponding stitch markers to hold them in place.
  • Repeat this process for the ending row corners and stitch markers in row 129.
  • Make sure that the pockets are both on the front side of the scarf.

Edging: Sc around

  • When adding a sc edging to hdc work, add 3 sc stitches for every 2 rows. This means you will add 1 sc to the end of the first row, 2 sc to the end of the second row, 1 sc to the end of the next row, 2 sc to the end of the following row, and so on and so forth across the length of your work.
  • Sc 3 times into the same stitch when working the corners at the bases of the corners.
  • When you get to the edges of the pockets, sc through both layers at the same time.
  • When you get to the bottom of the pockets, work in the between posts of the row at the base fold – alternating between 1 sc and 2 sc across.

Fasten off and sew in ends.

Yarnfully Yours,